To visit a place is to see it. To stay is to finally understand it.

In 2020 I sent a $100 deposit for an apartment in Saranda I had only seen in photos, in a country I had never set foot in. These are the guides I’ve written from actually living here: where to go on the Albanian Riviera, how to get around, what things really cost, and what I’d tell any woman thinking about visiting or moving to Albania.